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The small-village charm is everywhere in the lovely former fishing village of Sveti Stefan, on an island off the coast of Montenegro. The village’s defensive walls, dating from the 15th century, still stand, protecting dozens of lovely limestone cottages and a pretty little church. These are now all part of a posh hotel for the rich and famous—the Aman Sveti Stefan—where village cottages provide rest and recreation, and sometimes private pools. Guests can wander the...